Real Leather vs Vegan Leather: Which is better for the environment?
We investigate what is the most sustainable option between the two leathers, and the answer is … complicated.
Words: Sasha Wardrop
Veganism has been on the rise for the past decade as more and more people realize the damaging effects the meat industry has on our planet.
Now, the fashion industry seems to be catching on. The once disregarded “pleather”, now rebranded to vegan leather, is being presented as a more ethical and sustainable version of leather. But is this option actually a more sustainable alternative? Join us on our investigation.
What is Vegan Leather?
Most commonly, vegan leather is made out of two types of plastics polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) because of their wrinkled texture which gives the effect of real leather.
However, the vegan or faux leather industry has come leaps and bounds from what it once was and now brands are looking to use natural resources such as pineapple leaves, cork, apple peels and even grape skins!
So is fake or real leather more sustainable?
This one is a complicated question as all leathers are not created equal. To assess their sustainability, we need to look at real and vegan leather in a couple of different areas.
Resources Used in Leather Manufacturing
Whilst vegan leather causes no harm to animals, the (most common) substitute is plastic, which we all know is wreaking havoc not only on the environment but also on animals because of the millions of micro-plastics washed into ecosystems every day. Kind of an oxymoron don’t you think?
However, with new, natural material alternatives coming to market such as mushroom and kombucha leather, in the future, we may not have to rely on these harmful plastics for vegan leather as much.
When you think of real leather, it’s not just the taking of animal lives to access their hides that’s the problem. The livestock sector has the biggest impact on our earth because of the land use, greenhouse gas emissions, and deforestation associated with animal agriculture.
But what if the leather is a by-product of the meat industry? In theory, this would contribute to a zero-waste society as it would prevent millions of hides from ending up in landfills, which would in turn produce more greenhouse gasses.
Danish brand Saks Potts justifies its use of real leathers in fashion: “Leather is often a by-product from the meat production, which is why many people legalise it more,” Catherine Saks explains. “Danish mink are completely zero waste, the fat is used for fuel on Danish busses, the bones are used as feed to other animals and a large amount are used as fertiliser for organic Danish vegetable production.”
Leather Production Process
Another huge problem with both real and fake leather is the production process.
The plastics that make-up vegan leather need to be soaked in phthalate to make it flexible and wearable. What is phthalate you ask? It’s a highly toxic chemical that is banned in several countries. Complicating matters further, vegan leather also uses petroleum in the manufacturing process, which fuels climate change (pun intended).
On the other hand, animal leather is also treated with harmful chemicals to make the product wearable. These chemicals can make their way into the water and cause many problems for natural ecosystems. Not to mention, they are also extremely bad for the health of people working in factories, in extreme cases causing cancer.
However, brands are now opting for new animal leather treating and tanning options, such as vegetable tanning, which is much less harmful than the chemical version.
Leather Lifecycle and Waste
When it comes to the lifecycle and disposal of these products, real leather definitely reigns supreme.
Whilst vegan leather starts to show wear and tear within a year, real leather is super durable, lasting for generations and often looking better with age. I have definitely pinched some of my mother’s leather pieces that she bought when she was my age and absolutely love them.
Real leather is also biodegradable, compared to the plastics that make up vegan leather which can hang around like a bad smell for decades.
At Rejina Pyo, the brand only uses leather from tanneries that are rated by the Leather Working Group, which works to improve traceability across the leather industry. These tanneries are rated on its energy and water use, emissions and chemical input, as well as having a clear supply chain that traces back to the slaughterhouse.
The Verdict
The leather debate is a double-edged sword. Whilst real leather is harmful to animals, vegan leather can be extremely damaging to the earth. All I suggest is to do your research whether you are looking to buy animal or vegan leather.
If it’s real leather you are after, opt for a brand that uses by-products and treats the leather with vegetable tanning products as opposed to chemicals. Or head to a good vintage shop and pick up some second-hand leather that doesn’t contribute to more production.
When considering vegan leather, look into the materials that are being used to create the products. Choose natural options such as pineapple, wine or mushroom leather to avoid the detrimental effects of plastic.
It’s estimated that 13 million tonnes of synthetic fibres enter our ocean each year.
